Day 19 – Ayr Sailean Campsite to Denmark

Everything got a little damp overnight so we strung the tents up to dry and hung out in the camp kitchen for a while.

There’s a large diversion today due to prescribed burning; the temporary route takes you along dirt roads adjacent to the highway, but we realised that the Denmark-Nornalup heritage rail trail runs alongside it, so we decided to take that instead. Rail trails are nice riding, gentle grades and no traffic.

We rolled out of camp around 9:00am and met the trail a few km down the road. The first few kms were a bit sketchy, knee high grass and loose sand. We’d been warned about the tiger snakes around here, one bloke we met saw 16 in a day walking the Bibbulmun track and had to have a day off in Northcliffe to de-stress. We only saw one and he was just catching some rays on the side of the track.

The trail improves and the surface gets a lot better, albeit a little sandy being we’re only a few km from the coast.

We rejoined the proper Munda Biddi route and turned south towards the coast. Here you start to get some nice views out to sea from the top of the ridge, which you then bomb down and head towards the beach.

We stopped off at Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks and took in the amazing coastal scenery. This place is really beautiful, huge granite boulders form sheltered pools close to the beach. Combine that with white sand and clear water and you’ve got yourself a veritable paradise. Have a close look at the Elephant Rocks photos – the rocks actually look like elephants!

To continue our free history lesson from yesterday…. the same granite is found on the north coast of Antartica; I guess this must have been one big igneous wonderland back in the days of the super continent, Gondwana.

I’d like to have stayed and camped at Greens Pool but we pressed on towards Denmark. The coastal shared use trail between Greens Pool and Lights Beach was brilliant; hard packed rubble trail through the dunes with amazing views of the coastline.

We stopped for lunch at the Lights Beach lookout, it sure beats the views we had on those dirt road lunches only a few days back.

From Lights Beach it’s only a 12km ride into Denmark, mainly on roads. Denmark seems like a nice little town, although like most other days we head straight for the pub for a few beers. This definitely isn’t a bad thing – you meet lots of interesting people and pick up lots of good tips in pubs.
Unfortunately we got bailed up by this bloke who confessed to riding his dirt bike on the Munda Biddi; “I’m the one who makes all those ruts for you boys” he said. We didn’t catch his name, but he looked like a Chad. Despite us telling him that wasn’t cool, Chad seemed oblivious to the fact we might get annoyed by that and carried on like he was our best mate. Chad was a dickhead.

We grabbed some dinner at the pub then headed down the road to the Riverside Camp Ground. The people here are lovely and showed us to a little hut that I think they reserve for riders and walkers. Not bad for $15/head.

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